Creating your own Dungeon Tiles

Posted on October 7, 2008 by RupertG
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Update: Click here for instructions on how to create your own Dungeon Tiles using Photoshop.

One of the big changes in Dungeons & Dragons Fourth Edition (D&D 4e) is the almost mandatory use of dungeon tiles and models for every combat encounter. While this had been a big push in D&D 3.x, it had never had the feeling of being absolutely necessary to run the game. This of course presents a bit of a challenge to a lot of gaming groups as they move across to the new system.

Wizards of the Coast of course have endeavoured to make some money facilitate groups in making the change by releasing their series of Dungeon Tiles. I have to admit, including these in adventure kits is absolutely awesome, but overall they haven’t proven to be that useful to our gaming group. I’ll save my complete comments for a review which I will one day get around to writing, but suffice it to say, there is a lack of variety and depth to the tile sets to make for interesting dungeons (or outdoor areas…).

This lead me to thinking about creating our own dungeon tiles for use in our games. My first plan was to use photoshop and start creating my own sheets which I would then print and use in our games. The problem with this was that it took a VERY long time to create a single room (I learnt a new respect for graphic artists…), and it still didn’t suit my GM’ing style.

Previous to our switching to 4e, I would draw all the maps out in fine detail as the characters explored. The maps would be filled with little details, but were drawn to a scale where an entire building could fit inside a 5 inch square. Not very useful when using models.

I then decided to go in a different direction. I would print out large, table sized grids, laminate them and use a blackboard marker to draw out the maps. This really appealed to me as it would allow me to make changes on the night and I could effectively draw quite large maps for everyone to play on.

I used Incompetech‘s site to create the grids. These guys have built tools that let you create all kinds of documents and then save the pdf’s in almost any size. For my project I created an A1 Square Grid (for inside buildings and dungeons) and an A1 Square Crosses Grid (for outdoor areas). I also added A2 sizes of the grids for when I might need a smaller section or sub section. These I got printed and laminated for $50 (AUD).

These have worked out absolutely great for our group, and I can highly recommend the approach. I am including a link at the bottom for pre-made hex grids, square grids and square cross grids in sizes A1, A2, A3 and A4. These should also print just fine on the ANSI size equivalents as well (there is a bit of a margin around each – although the hex grid might be a bit tight – let me know how it goes if there is trouble…). If there are any other sheets that you might use, check out the incompetech’s site as they have great resources for gamer’s.

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About RupertG

RupertG has been playing roleplaying games ever since he discovered Dragon Warriors at the age of 12. Since those days he has played many different RPG's, collected not insignificant Dwarf and Tomb Kings armies for Warhammer Fantasy Battles and even worked as a games designer in the heady days of the late 90's building a CCG. Now he runs a gaming blog and is a participant in the Grand Gaming Experiment
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  • Ellisthion

    Nice pictures. I must say, in support of 4E, the forced use of a grid has led to some more interesting combat mechanics, leading to more dynamic battles where position and movement are actually relevant.

  • Ellisthion

    Nice pictures. I must say, in support of 4E, the forced use of a grid has led to some more interesting combat mechanics, leading to more dynamic battles where position and movement are actually relevant.

  • http://www.diceofdoom.com RupertG

    It does indeed improve the whole combat thing – it makes a lot of the area effects more meaningful and also aids in movement and position as you suggested.

    The only negative that may of course occur is the ramp-up that would be needed for some groups to change. Most of the changes, of course is on the GM’s side of things really. But certainly over-all it has improved combat. This of course raises questions over the new focus of the game, but that’s probably for another time… :)

  • http://www.diceofdoom.com RupertG

    It does indeed improve the whole combat thing – it makes a lot of the area effects more meaningful and also aids in movement and position as you suggested.

    The only negative that may of course occur is the ramp-up that would be needed for some groups to change. Most of the changes, of course is on the GM’s side of things really. But certainly over-all it has improved combat. This of course raises questions over the new focus of the game, but that’s probably for another time… :)

  • Miss T

    And i get to play with toys!!

    I’m a hands-on kind of gamer, methinks

  • Miss T

    And i get to play with toys!!

    I’m a hands-on kind of gamer, methinks

  • http://www.monkeyshine.co.uk wooden toys

    I just wanted to say that I love this site

    • http://www.diceofdoom.com RupertG

      Thank you ;)

  • http://www.monkeyshine.co.uk wooden toys

    I just wanted to say that I love this site

    • http://www.diceofdoom.com RupertG

      Thank you ;)

  • Vladimir

    Its good idea, but… its hard to erase drawing! >.<

  • Vladimir

    Its good idea, but… its hard to erase drawing! >.<

  • Vladimir

    P.S. I use whiteboard marker too.

  • Vladimir

    P.S. I use whiteboard marker too.

  • http://www.diceofdoom.com RupertG

    That is true, it can be. We have found using a whiteboard cleaning spray to help a lot. You can find it in most good stationer’s shops, and that makes it quite easy. Other cleaners like window cleaners can help too.

    We’ve actually started just printing the sheets out and using them only once. We then use tokens for other things that we would have marked the sheet for as well.

  • http://www.diceofdoom.com RupertG

    That is true, it can be. We have found using a whiteboard cleaning spray to help a lot. You can find it in most good stationer’s shops, and that makes it quite easy. Other cleaners like window cleaners can help too.

    We’ve actually started just printing the sheets out and using them only once. We then use tokens for other things that we would have marked the sheet for as well.

  • Alex

    If I may make a suggestion that takes a bit more time and effort, but is a lot cheaper. What I did was pick up some poster paper with a pre-printed grid at Wal-Mart, and laminate four pages together to make one big page. Not only was this cheaper than $50.00 AUD (It came to about $7.00 USD. I don’t know exactly how those compare, but I think I got the better deal.), but it folds into something a quarter of the size for easy storage. My only complaint is that the only grid paper I could find was a half-inch grid instead of a one inch grid, meaning that one square is four squares, or two by two squares. But that shouldn’t get too confusing.

  • Alex

    If I may make a suggestion that takes a bit more time and effort, but is a lot cheaper. What I did was pick up some poster paper with a pre-printed grid at Wal-Mart, and laminate four pages together to make one big page. Not only was this cheaper than $50.00 AUD (It came to about $7.00 USD. I don’t know exactly how those compare, but I think I got the better deal.), but it folds into something a quarter of the size for easy storage. My only complaint is that the only grid paper I could find was a half-inch grid instead of a one inch grid, meaning that one square is four squares, or two by two squares. But that shouldn’t get too confusing.

  • Brian

    Just wondering if anyone will make more poster sized fold up maps. I don’t like dungeon tiles anymore, not because they don’t look good (ok), but because it takes so long to set up a meaningful encounter with them and they can be moved. I want more folded paper ones because they are quick and dirty, I already have a battlemat. I’ve had one since 2ed, but I’ve made one too using a dry-erase board, 7/8″ masking tape (use the blue stuff), and permanent markers. Lay the tape in strips 1/8″ apart, first horizontal and then vertical. Then use the marker to dot each of the open squares between the “grid”. You end up with a grid of dots using this method instead of lines, but thats good because it makes it easier to distinguish walls and terrain that way.

  • Brian

    Just wondering if anyone will make more poster sized fold up maps. I don’t like dungeon tiles anymore, not because they don’t look good (ok), but because it takes so long to set up a meaningful encounter with them and they can be moved. I want more folded paper ones because they are quick and dirty, I already have a battlemat. I’ve had one since 2ed, but I’ve made one too using a dry-erase board, 7/8″ masking tape (use the blue stuff), and permanent markers. Lay the tape in strips 1/8″ apart, first horizontal and then vertical. Then use the marker to dot each of the open squares between the “grid”. You end up with a grid of dots using this method instead of lines, but thats good because it makes it easier to distinguish walls and terrain that way.

  • Guy from portugal

    I have started DMing only a few months ago, but what I use is acetate (not sure if its the right word in english… some transparent plasticky thingy which you used to put on top of those old projectors, to project your work on a wall?).

    I have 8x A4 sheet of acetate, and just have to make a drawing on some random sheet(Usually A4, as I prefer to add to the dungeon as they go through it, instead of letting them know the basic layout of the rooms from the start), and put the grid on top of it, to have anything I want to have there.

    There are also markers to write on acetate, so I can write and erase if there’s some temporary changes in the dungeon.

  • Guy from portugal

    Note: The acetate sheets have a 1 inch grid printed on them.

    • http://diceofdoom.com RupertG

      Acetate is a great idea! Thanks for suggesting it, that makes a lot of sense to use… :)